My bra-making adventure started out with making a few bralettes which I have learned can be made with more support, however on the day to day I usually wear bras with underwire.
For my first wired bra, I used the pattern that comes in the Bare Essentials Bra book which is a full frame bra with one seam. My tester was too big in the back band so I removed 1/2″ and finished the bra, but I think removing only 1/4″ would have been sufficient. I didn’t really know the best way to attach the hooks and eye nor close up the underwire channeling at the front frame, but I learned a few techniques after sewing up the Berkeley Bra after this. More on that in a future post. I also made things difficult for myself when attaching the channeling because I had used 1/2″ elastic on the bra band
The 34D size fit pretty well right out of the gate with just a few issues. I wasn’t crazy about the shape of my breasts that was created using the one vertical seam. The bridge was just a little bit too wide. Also, regular underwires were not long enough.
Because I didn’t want to make the same bra twice, I added lace to the second version and made a few more modifications. I modified the bottom cup to 2 pieces, removed 1/8″ from the CF of the front band bridge, and then cut a 1 piece frame. For the back band I used both a firm weight power net and a light mesh for both support and to match the white inside lining.
I’m quite happy with the three piece cup version. Changes for the next bra I might draft a power bar now that I know what those do.
Fabrics and Notions Used:
Duoplex, Rigid Lace, 3/8″ Elastic, Decorative Elastic, Full Coverage Underwire, Sheer Cup Lining, Firm Power Net and Light Mesh, 1/2″ rings, sliders, and straps.